Posted on October 23, 2009 in 2009 Pilgrimage to the Holy Land - 0 COMMENTS
Day Two
by Rev Fr Chris Flesoras
Today, we boarded our bus at 6:45am so that we would arrive shortly before 8AM to celebrate Liturgy at the Monastery Church of the Prophet Elijah, upon Mount Tabor. What a way to start a morning; we will receive the Word, both in Scripture and in the Eucharist in a Church constructed upon the very mountain on which Jesus was transfigured in glory.
The existing Church was built as a Crusader’s Chapel, built upon the foundation of a fourth century Byzantine Church (the back wall of the Altar is from the original Church built in 337). Although much smaller than the Catholic Basilica also found upon the Mount, which was constructed on the ruins of two earlier Byzantine Churches, the Church was magnificent. The Program of iconography was completed a few years ago, written by an iconographer from Greece.
Liturgy was prayed in the relatively new chapel; in fact the program of iconography has yet to be concluded. We were honored to have assisting us in the service the Abbot, Very Reverend Father Ilarion who has served the sisters at the Monastery for the past 38 years. He was a kind man indeed, so kind that he informed me to close up my vestment satchel so that I wouldn’t take home one the monastery kittens that was looking for a place to take a nap.
Praying Liturgy in this Church was moving for all of us, whether in the Holy Altar or in the nave, whether we’ve been Orthodox since our birth or have been received as early as the prior day. I can only liken the experience to praying services in Thessaloniki in the Church that is built upon the location of where St. Paul preached to the Thessalonians, one of the Monasteries of Mount Athos, the Church of St. Lazarus in Cyprus. I offer these as like experiences as those Churches have been standing for centuries on a site sacred for Christians, not to mention that in each of these churches, the saints have found shelter, hope and perfect union with Christ. Who would not be humbled?
Following Liturgy we sat in the courtyard and enjoyed a packed breakfast as well as cups of Greek coffee or tea prepared by the sisters. Currently, there are nine sisters who reside at the Monastery. One of the sisters, ninety-four years of age, was from San Francisco. After her husband reposed, her children were grown, and the timing was right, she was tonsured a nun to live out the remainder of her years on Mount Tabor.
We are now riding off to Nazareth. Nazareth is the place where Mary received the glad tidings of the Annunciation from the Archangel Gabriel. The current Greek Orthodox Church of the Archangel Gabriel was constructed in the 18th century over a crypt, which contains the well by which Mary received the news. Well-worn steps are found on the right side of the crypt, testifying to their use throughout the centuries. Steps, steps and more steps!
There also exists a huge Roman Catholic Cathedral, consecrated in 1969. It was built over the remains of two earlier Byzantine Churches, one being of the fourth century. It is believed that St. Helen had the first Church built next to the house of Mary. The design of the Catholic Basilica is clever and practical. The lower level accommodates pilgrims by displaying the remains of Mary’s house, a Byzantine Church, and the remaining wall from the Crusaders Church. The upper level serves as parish for the local faithful.
Attached to this Church is a second Church dedicated to St. Joseph; a Benedictine Convent connects them. St. Joseph’s Church has a lower level accessible to pilgrims which preserves yet another Byzantine Church. There were some unique works of art, both statues and paintings of the Holy Family.
Although the Lord was born in Bethlehem, we know from Scripture that he spent many years in Nazareth. It was a small town – a few hundred people at the most. Today, the city boasts over 80,000 people with more than 50% being Muslim. Unfortunately, the Lord and His words were not received by the inhabitants of Nazareth, which led him to Capernaum.
It’s 2:30 pm. We’re off to lunch. Our stop was a traditional kibbutz (although they raise pigs and serve pork…not that tradition); a few of us ventured to the grocery store rather than eating in the cafeteria. Thirty-six shekels (about $12) got me a loaf of French bread, a hunk of Brie, an apple, a banana and a drink…delicious!
Our afternoon was to conclude at the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George in Cana, which the Orthodox consider the site of the wedding of Cana. Unfortunately, the Church was closed when we arrived. Fortunately, I was able to tag along with a Roman Catholic group, made up of pilgrims from Washington and Minnesota as they visited their Church commemorating the Wedding of Cana practically across the street. Like most Roman Catholic Churches within the region, it too was built upon a much earlier Byzantine Church. It was a very quaint Church but quite pretty in its simplicity.
As a side note, Orthodox clergy are quite the rage for tourists. I can’t begin to tell you how many times Fr. Demetri or I have been photographed as part of the shot at a Holy Site. In the past two days, I’ve been asked, “Would you mind getting in this photo?” , at least 6 or 7 times.
A few concluding thoughts: It’s overwhelming to see so many pilgrims from every region of the world waking to and praying within the various churches that we have visited thus far in our travels. Having said this, each site runs the risk of becoming a tourist trap rather than being a house of prayer that happens to be built upon a sacred moment of history. It’s a fine line that some seem walk better than others. Regardless of their success, God bless these communities for making accessible the most sacred and historical sites of Christians.
Tomorrow, off to Jericho!
